Lucky for us Thailand dwellers, who unluckily do not have a climbing gym in Phuket and have to go elsewhere to get our fix, Phi Phi is the perfect weekend trip! It costs about 500 baht for a ferry trip there and back, which I must tell you is V.I.P. considering some of the horrifying bus rides I've subjected myself to trying to get out to Tonsai - the real climbing mecca - for cheap, and it only takes about an hour and a half each way! They fed us pineapple and watermelon on the journey and we got to sit up on the deck, enjoying the last of the sunny Sunday afternoon, and were doused with salt water periodically due to the turbulent seas, which was a great misty relief when your stomach is doing some dodgy somersaults. I did use "dodgy" in that last sentence and I blame my British housemate. I swear, I've yet to use the term out loud, but when describing this scenario for you, "sketchy", my "go to" word, did not seem to suffice! I've never been happy with British jargon invading my life since my mother, the British expat who grew up in Zimbabwe, still used British-speak when I was growing up, that I was sure she made up. I would roll my eyes at her bizzaro pronunciations while "getting the brolly or bits and bobs from the boot". My poor mother - I get it now, Mom; you weren't the only one to say aluminum funny!
Hi, my name is Nicola and I'm a recovering, culturally insensitive, American child.
British lingo has a way of finding its way through, regardless of my experience in fighting back with abreviations and "valley girl speak". "Like, where is the loo?" Blast! (Disclaimer: I have NEVER and will NEVER acutally say "loo"...that was just to make a point)
So, Phi Phi. Right. Phi has this one wall, Tonsai Tower, which is the most easily accessible and popular climbing location on Phi Phi island, which on the busiest day, the first day we were there, had a record total of 4 climbers on it when we rocked up...doing easy climbs with a guide. This left the rest of the area free to be turned into Jill and my climbing gym. It is important to note that a lot of the walls have NOT been rebolted recently...I was seeing climbs in the book bolted in 1987 - before I was even born! While I still consider myself a child, in climbing years, 1987 is ancient! Since the guides use the routes on Tonsai tower frequently, they have all been rebolted in the last year or so. Titanium, baby. The tower has a lot of low grade climbs, but a few more challenging multi pitch climbs. Jill and I completed my first multi pitch and I have to say, it was amazing! I have been a gym rat, a boulderer, a born again sport climber, and now....I feel the itch for climbing high! That is 300 feet of vertical rock, high.
Since this was Jill's first time leading a multi pitch, having done a multi pitch only once before, and my first attempt ever, we had a lot of figuring out to do as we went. I was so happy to have been around the block a few times in regard to setting anchors, leading climbs, and setting top ropes. It meant that whenever we were getting ready to head up the next pitch or rappel down, we could problem solve and checkity check for safety multiple times over. I'll be honest, I was scared out of my mind for the first two pitches - oddly enough, the easiest part of the route, by far. I was shaking like no one's business and even managed to drop a quick draw (two titanium carabiners attached by climbing webbing/rope) from 50 meters up. Thank sweet baby Jesus that I didn't fucking murder our newly acquired friend, who was messing around, bouldering at the bottom! I almost had a heart attack, but my climbing partner in crime, Jill, looked at me and just said, "get to me". I focused on what I needed to do - get my wits about me and finish the pitch (We did have extra carabiners with us too, so it wasn't a problem that I'd just gone and tossed one off the route, but only because no one was hurt).
Interestingly enough, the harder the climbs got and the higher up we climbed, the more comfortable and confident I became. I will say that being attached to the same ring of metal , suspended 70 meters above the ground, not only is a feeling that you can not recreate, but it builds a bond unlike you would ever believe.
This is what is keeping you safe....
The two of us definitely had an Aladin moment at bottom of the 4 pitch climb, when Jill, this strong and confident little Filippina girl, turned to me and asked, "Do you trust me?" It wasn't something I had to think about before answering. A couple of hours into the climb, feet upon feet between us and the ground below, and the rope, holding Jill and I safe, in my hands, I had a realization that I trusted Jill with my life more than anyone else in the entire world. It was the first time that I really realized the intensity of the situation and how much I had to trust her. With everything.
We finished the 4th pitch, a total of 92 meters or 301 feet, and I looked behind me at the famous heart shaped bay, a view only possible from our elevation, feeling the breeze on my face, leaning away from the wall, and I was overwhelmed with emotion. I was so proud of myself for persevering and tackling a fear of heights head on. I was amazed at how confident I felt, while being suspended at the top of, what felt like, the entire world. It was magical.
I won't lie - this is my "I'm a little freaked out" face.
Jill and I had finished the ascent, but had a whole different process to work with on the way down. It took a lot of problem solving and discussing, but we were able to make it down to the beginning of the climb with no trouble. We were elated. It was such an adrenaline rush that was validated further when we returned to the beach and turned around to take in the massive rock face that we had just conquered. It was unbelievable to stand, dwarfed by the size of the tower, following the route with our eyes as it carved its way up over 300 feet. Apparently, our new friend and rescuer of my rouge quick draw, Kevin, said that one of the girls from the climbing class that had been next to us for a brief moment, had posted up on the beach with a few others, who were taking photographs and watching us climb - most likely Koreans :), and had said something about how it was amazing/crazy what we were doing and that we must be a couple of strong men. Our buddy resisted the urge to respond with, "Actually those two are girls, I'm the guy and I'm the one sitting on the beach while they are up there". Haha, rad.
Needless to say, multi pitch climbing is amazing and so is Phi Phi. I love going to touristy beach destinations and I imagine I'd love just soaking up the sun and throwing back some buckets of liquid date rape, but as for right now - I'm a climbing addict and rock is my drug.....no, no, not the powdery white stuff - unless you are referring to the contents of my chalk bag.
It's an incredible feeling being pushed out of your element, both mentally and physically, proving to yourself that you can handle it. I used to think I was afraid of heights. I guess the trick is, when you're losing your wits and your protection has just dive bombed from your hands, 50 meters above the ground, to keep. moving. up.
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